Replacing gutters is one of those projects that looks straightforward from the ground but rewards careful planning. Done well, new gutters protect fascia boards, siding, foundations, and landscaping, and they do it quietly for years. Done poorly, they overflow on the first serious storm. Homeowners ask me how long gutter replacement takes and what happens each day. The honest answer is that it depends on the house, the crew size, the product, and the weather. Still, after supervising and swinging a drill on hundreds of installs, I can tell you the most common rhythm and where projects speed up or bog down.
Below is the timeline I walk clients through, from first call to that satisfying moment when water shoots cleanly out the downspout during a test. I’ll also point out what can compress the schedule and what stretches it, and how to fold in gutter repair and other gutter services without compromising the workmanship.
Before any ladders go up: the pre-work that sets the pace
Most homeowners think the project starts when the trucks pull up. The reality is that a good portion of the success is decided before anyone touches a hanger. A reputable company will ask for photos, set a site visit, and talk you through materials. That first conversation saves time later, because surprises are what slow a job.
A site visit usually takes 30 to 60 minutes on an average single-family home. The estimator measures rooflines, notes fascia condition, inspects soffit vents, and looks for settlement cracks or grading that suggest drainage challenges. They should also check where underground drains emerge, if any, and take a peek at attic ventilation. If a contractor skips these steps, expect change orders later.
Material selection is practical, not just aesthetic. Aluminum K-style in 5 or 6 inch is the default for many homes because it balances cost and performance. Larger 6 inch gutters paired with 3 by 4 inch downspouts move almost twice the water of a 5 inch system, which matters if you have a steep roof or long runs that concentrate flow. Half-round copper looks fantastic on historic homes, but it adds time for soldered seams and custom hangers. Leaf guards and screens help with gutter maintenance, but not every guard works with every pitch or roof type. Talking these choices through ahead of time keeps installation day focused.
Lead times for materials vary. Seamless aluminum arrives as coil stock on the truck and is rolled on site, so there’s no waiting once the appointment is set. Copper or factory-painted steel in special colors can add a week or two. Custom miter boxes, rain chains, or decorative collectors add similar time. In a busy season, I tell clients to expect 1 to 3 weeks between estimate approval and install, primarily to schedule crews and receive any special-order items.
Day 1: arrival, protection, and tear-off
Most standard homes can be fully replaced in a single day with a three to five person crew, but the first hours set the tone. The lead will walk the site with you, confirm downspout locations, and mark utilities. If there is a sprinkler system or delicate landscaping, ask for drop cloths and plywood paths. It’s a small touch, but it protects plants and saves cleanup time.
Tear-off starts with downspouts. Crews remove fasteners, usually hex-head screws, then lift off the runs and cap any tie-ins to underground drains to keep debris out. With the downspouts off, the gutters come down in sections. Expect some mess. Old gutters often hold sediment and shingle granules. A tidy crew will stage trash cans or a dump trailer beneath the ladder path to catch debris.
Hidden hangers usually come out cleanly with a drill. Spike-and-ferrule systems, especially on older homes, sometimes fight back. Spikes that have rusted solid require a cat’s paw or reciprocating saw to cut flush, and patching those holes in the fascia takes finesse. This is the first place timelines diverge. If your fascia boards are soft from past overflow or ice dams, what looks like a tear-off can turn into gutter repair and carpentry.
Good contractors build in time for modest fascia repairs. I carry 1 by 6 and 1 by 8 primed boards on the truck. Replacing a few linear feet adds an hour or two, including caulking and spot-priming cuts. If rot is extensive, especially at roof ends where water sat for years, the day’s plan changes. Expect a call to discuss scope, because full-length fascia or soffit replacement extends the project by a day or more, and it often triggers a conversation about drip edge, which involves the roofer.
With gutters off, the team inspects the entire run. We check the sub-fascia for straightness, confirm the rafter tail locations for secure hanger placement, and examine the drip edge. Any hidden wasp nests get sprayed. Flashing that has lifted gets set back down with compatible fasteners and sealant. These small steps prevent callbacks.
Midday of Day 1: measuring, cutting, and machine setup
Seamless gutters are formed on-site from coil stock fed through a portable roll-former. This is where experience shows. Crews measure each run with a wheel, then add a little length to allow for tight end caps. For a long stretch, we plan the high and low points, usually with a pitch of 1/16 to 1/8 inch per foot. That looks nearly level to the eye but moves water quickly enough to avoid standing pools.
We lay out the plan in chalk on the ground and mark hanger spacing on the fascia, usually every 24 inches for standard systems, tighter in heavy snow zones. Near inside and outside corners, we tighten spacing to avoid sag at the miters. For copper or half-round, we often use different hanger styles, which changes the spacing and the prep.
At the machine, coil color is double-checked against the signed work order. Rolling a 40 foot piece in the wrong color wastes time and material. The operator makes test runs to ensure the profile is crisp and consistent. Any rippling means a die adjustment. This setup takes 15 to 30 minutes but saves hours later. We crimp end caps with sealant applied to the inside ridge, not smeared on the face. A clean sealant line is the mark of someone who cares.
Late Day 1: hanging gutters and setting pitch
With pieces formed, we bring ladders and sections to the house. Long runs are carried by two or three people to avoid bending. On a typical ranch, you’ll see two ladders leapfrogging down the line, with the lead setting the first balanced point and the rest following hangers on marks. We use a water level or a laser, depending on the visibility and sun position. top gutter installation services Both work, but a water level is still hard to beat on odd shapes.
Hang from the high point and establish the low point at the downspout outlet. Outlets go in before the section is fully fastened. I cut the outlet hole slightly small, then snip to a clean oval and finish with a deburring tool. That reduces burrs that grab leaves later. Screws go in square. A hanger cocked even a few degrees can telegraph a dip that collects water. The crew will check pitch with a six-foot level and a keen eye, and we test quickly with a hose if there’s any doubt.
Corners slow the day. Pre-formed box miters speed installs but add two seams. Hand-cut strip miters are cleaner, with a narrower profile and fewer leak points, but they take skill and time to cut, cleat, and seal. Copper is soldered for durability. That’s a different pacing entirely, since each joint gets cleaned, fluxed, heated, and cooled correctly. On an average aluminum job, expect all miters sealed with a high-grade gutter sealant rated for wet adhesion, not generic silicone that peels under UV.
By late afternoon, most crews have all horizontal runs mounted and are ready to tie in downspouts. If the house is simple, downspouts may already be up. Complex routing around decks, AC lines, or landscaping lights adds minutes per bend. Each extra offset is two more seams, which takes more time now but less time chasing leaks later.
Day 1 wrap-up: downspouts, splash blocks, and first water test
Downspouts are where a gutter system proves itself. A 2 by 3 inch downspout on a roof with two valleys meeting at a single corner is a bottleneck. If your estimator recommended upgrading to larger downspouts, this is when it pays off. We cut outlets cleanly and crimp downspout ends for smooth flow. Straps are pre-drilled into studs or solid sheathing when possible. I avoid pounding fasteners into brittle brick faces and instead use mortar joints with masonry anchors.
Routing to grade deserves thought. If you have underground drains, we camera them ahead of time when possible. Attaching new downspouts to a blocked or broken drain is a recipe for basement dampness. Where no underground system exists, we direct flow to heavy-duty splash blocks or extensions set to pitch away from the foundation. I’m not a fan of cheap roll-out extensions unless there’s no alternative, because they catch on mowers and rarely sit right after a month.
Once at least one full run and its downspout are installed, we test with a hose. We start at the far end and watch water sheet along the gutter to the outlet. If there’s pooling, we adjust hangers. If a downspout gurgles, there may be a constriction or an off-angle elbow. Correcting these issues at 4 p.m. is far better than at midnight during a thunderstorm. A good crew will repeat these spot tests around the house as they go. On a simple single-story home, this completes the job in one day, including cleanup and a final walk-around.
When the job needs a second day
Two-story homes with multiple rooflines, accessory buildings, or custom materials often run into a second day. High ladder work slows crews, not because of fear but because safety and smart staging take precedence. If lifts are required, add time for setup and careful movement around landscaping. Soldered copper and half-round systems nearly always take two days, sometimes three, especially if ornate conductor gutter cleaning heads or decorative brackets are part of the design.
Weather pushes schedules too. Light drizzle is workable. Driving rain or high winds are not. Sealants need a reasonably dry surface and modest temperatures to cure well. I would rather reschedule than force an install in poor conditions that lead to callbacks.
Day two typically starts with finishing any remaining runs, completing downspout routes, and installing accessories like guards or diverters. It ends with a thorough water test, caulking touch-ups, and a detailed cleanup. Expect another 3 to 6 hours, depending on complexity. If carpentry was required for fascia or soffit, painters may follow, either the same day or later, to seal raw wood and match finish. That coordination avoids premature rot and keeps warranties valid.
Adding guards and other accessories without losing the schedule
Many homeowners take the gutter replacement moment to add guards. Smart, but installation order matters. We install all runs, test pitch, then fit guards. Snap-in screens go fast, but they struggle with heavy pine needles. Micro-mesh guards perform well across debris types, but they require careful alignment and firm fastening to both the gutter lip and the roof edge or drip edge, depending on the system. On average, guards add one to three hours for a typical house. On steep roofs, add more for safe footing.
If your roof uses a laminated shingle with a thick butt, guard compatibility matters. Some guards lift shingles, voiding roof warranties. I prefer designs that slide under the drip edge rather than the shingles themselves. If drip edge is missing, it’s worth adding during replacement. It protects fascia, improves guard fit, and usually takes an hour or two around a standard roofline.
Rain chains, diverters above wide doorways, and rain barrel hookups are quick adds if planned in advance. Retrofitting later can mean pulling fasteners or cutting fresh outlets, which adds time and risk.
What quality control looks like on a good crew
The quiet work of a solid install happens in the small checks. Crews eyeball the distance from gutter back to siding to ensure the trough sits under the roof plane where water drops. They check that hangers do not interfere with guard panels. They tug on downspout straps and look for any movement. They inspect every miter for a continuous sealant bead, inside and out, without big globs that catch debris.
A final test with the hose is not optional. We simulate a downpour, especially at valleys, and watch for overshoot at corners. If water rockets past a corner even with proper pitch, the solution is usually a combination of larger gutters, high-capacity outlets, and, in some cases, a short splash guard at the corner. That guard is not a band-aid if installed correctly. It is a proven way to tame water velocity.
Cleanup includes magnet sweeping for stray screws, picking up aluminum trimmings, and inspecting the yard for hidden sharp bits. Old gutters and downspouts should leave with the crew unless you arranged to keep them.
The day after: settling, drip checks, and the first rain
A day after installation, sealants have set and any microscopic stretches in the metal from temperature swings have normalized. This is the time to take a slow walk around the house in the morning and check for drips after you run a hose at roof level. Pay attention to inside corners and around outlets. A pinhole or a tiny void in sealant looks like a little tear. If you see it, call the installer while everything is still fresh.
The first real storm is the honest test. Take a look from windows or a covered porch. You are watching for three things. First, overshoot where water leaps over the gutter during heavy flow. Second, pooling at low points, visible as a long sheet of water lingering after the rain eases. Third, downspout discharge that reverses toward the foundation. Any of these warrant a quick service call. Reputable gutter services include a workmanship warranty and will adjust hangers or outlet sizes at no cost within that period.
How gutters fail early and how to avoid it
If new gutters misbehave, it usually traces back to one of five causes: insufficient slope, undersized capacity, poor outlet positioning, sloppy miters, or bad downspout routing. Each is avoidable.
- Field examples: On a two-story colonial with a long rear run feeding a single corner, the original builder had used 5 inch K-style with a 2 by 3 inch downspout. Heavy summer storms would turn the corner into a waterfall. The fix was replacing with 6 inch gutters and 3 by 4 inch downspouts, and splitting the run with a second outlet midway. The project took an extra half day, and the problem vanished. On another home with a metal roof, snow slides crushed a standard hanger pattern in winter. Switching to heavy-duty hangers at 16 inch centers with snow guards on the roof solved it.
Weather windows and seasonal timing
In temperate climates, spring and fall are peak seasons for gutter replacement. Material sits better in mild temperatures, and crews move faster. In high heat, aluminum coil gets pliable. Crews account for that by supporting long sections more carefully and avoiding overdriving fasteners that can oil-can the face. In cold snaps, sealant cures slowly, and brittle shingles complicate guard installs and drip edge work. If a job must happen in winter, I bring cold-weather sealant and warm the tubes in the cab, and I insist on sunny afternoons for better adhesion. These considerations can push a one-day job into a day and a half.
Where gutter maintenance fits in after replacement
New gutters still need occasional gutter maintenance unless you live under open sky with no nearby trees. Without guards, expect to clean in the late fall and once in spring. With guards, plan a quick rinse to clear roof grit. Downspout elbows are the choke points. If your system ties into underground drains, keep a simple drain snake in the garage. A ten-minute check after leaf drop prevents a flooded window well in November.
I tell clients to watch for subtle cues. If you see tiger striping on the front face of the gutter after a few months, water is dribbling over the lip. That can indicate a sag between hangers or a clogged outlet. If you hear a constant drip during light rain, you may have a pinhole at a miter where sealant shrank. These are small fixes when caught early.
Cost and scheduling variables that move the timeline
Homeowners often ask why their neighbor’s job took half a day while theirs ran two. The main variables are house complexity, height, material choice, and add-ons.
- Complexity and height: A single-story ranch with four straight runs is fast. A two-story with dormers, multiple inside corners, and a walkout basement is slower, mainly due to ladder moves and careful downspout routing. Material choice: Seamless aluminum is the quickest. Steel adds weight and more careful handling. Copper adds soldering time and meticulous fitting. Add-ons: Guards, drip edge, rain barrels, and custom collectors each add modest time if planned, more if improvised on site. Hidden repairs: Fascia rot, pest damage, or discovering that a previous installer used mismatched slope can add hours. Good estimators will flag likely trouble, but some realities only show up after tear-off.
As for cost, professional gutter replacement ranges widely by region and material. Without promising a number that won’t fit your market, I tell clients to budget in bands: basic 5 inch aluminum with standard downspouts at the lower end, 6 inch with larger downspouts and quality guards in the middle, and copper or half-round systems at the premium end. More important than the number is what it includes: disposal, minor fascia repair, outlet sizing appropriate to roof area, and a workmanship warranty.
A practical, day-by-day snapshot
For those who like a simple view of time, here is the cadence I see most often on a standard seamless aluminum project.
- Day 0 to Day -14: Estimate, material decisions, scheduling. If special colors or guards are chosen, materials are ordered. Utility awareness, drainage questions, and any coordination with roofers or painters are handled. Day 1 morning: Crew arrival, site walk, protection. Downspouts and gutters removed, fascia inspected, small repairs made. Machine setup and first sections rolled. Day 1 afternoon: New gutters hung, outlets cut, downspouts fitted and secured, spot water tests done as each section finishes. Site cleanup as the team progresses, final inspection lap, and hose test of tricky areas. Day 2, if needed: Remaining runs and downspouts finished. Guards, drip edge, or accessories installed. Extended testing, caulk touch-ups, thorough cleanup, and a homeowner walkthrough. Day 3 to 7: Optional painter visit for fascia touch-up if carpentry was needed. Homeowner observation during first rain, with a quick service call scheduled if anything misbehaves.
What a good walkthrough covers before the crew leaves
A thorough handoff takes ten minutes and saves headaches. The lead should show you each downspout termination and explain why they chose that direction. Ask where clean-out points are if you have underground tie-ins. Look up at each miter to see clean seals, not smeared gobs. Check that the gutter sits behind the drip edge, not in front. If guards were added, lift a panel at the least visible spot to see how it’s fastened. Confirm that every yard gate is closed, debris is removed, and magnetic sweeping was done.
Request the warranty terms in writing. Most firms offer a limited lifetime on materials from the manufacturer and a one to five year workmanship warranty. Keep your invoice and any color codes for future matching. If you ever add a porch or change a roof, that data saves a lot of detective work.
Edge cases worth noting
Some homes present unique challenges. Metal roofs shed snow in sheets that can flatten standard gutters. In snowy regions, we coordinate with a roofer to add snow guards and we tighten hanger spacing. Very tall homes with limited ground access may require a boom lift, adding setup time and sometimes a permit. Historic districts may require approvals for copper or visible changes, which shifts the timeline by weeks rather than days. Homes with barrel-tile roofs demand caution at the eaves to avoid breakage, and drip edge integration can be finicky.
Another edge case is heavy clay soil and poor grading. Even perfect gutters will not solve a negative slope toward the house. In that scenario, gutter services and drainage work should be synchronized. We often recommend extending downspouts to daylight or tying into French drains to move water 10 to 15 feet from the foundation. Adding this work to the gutter schedule keeps the project cohesive but typically adds a day.
Aftercare and keeping the system performing
A month after install, look at fasteners and straps to ensure nothing has loosened. Heat and cold expand metal, and the first cycles may reveal a screw that wants another quarter turn. Keep a photo log of each run and downspout, especially where they connect to underground drains. If a landscaper changes grade or a contractor adds a patio, those photos help preserve the water path.
When storms roll through, listen. Water should move decisively, with a steady, contained rush in the downspouts. Splash at corners or drip from seams is a signal to act. Early calls are easier for crews to slot in, and small tweaks keep your warranty clean. Good gutter maintenance is not glamorous, but it is far cheaper than repairing fascia or a damp basement.
The bottom line on timing and expectations
Most gutter replacement projects on standard homes take one full day, sometimes stretching into a second for height, complexity, or premium materials. The day begins with protection and tear-off, moves into careful measurement and machine work, and ends with hanging, downspouts, and a real water test. Hidden repairs and add-ons like guards can shift the schedule, but with clear planning, they fit neatly.
If you choose a contractor who treats the pre-work with respect, names the trade-offs honestly, and tests every run before leaving, you will likely forget about your gutters for years at a time. That quiet performance is the goal. When the next big storm hits and water arcs neatly into the drain rather than over your doorway, the extra hour spent getting pitch right on day one will feel like the best time you ever invested in your home’s envelope.
Power Roofing Repair
Address: 201-14 Hillside Ave., Hollis, NY 11423
Phone: (516) 600-0701
Website: https://powerroofingnyc.com/